Q. My three-year-old Honda Odyssey has 22,000 miles and is still under warranty. The rear brakes were all rusted, and the dealer said the brake rotor needs to be changed (not covered under manufacturer's warranty). I believe this is unusual because the car is used only for highway driving and on weekend trips. What can I do?

A. You didn’t mention if the rust is causing a problem. It is not unusual for brake rotors to rust, even just after sitting overnight. Generally, driving the vehicle is enough to have the brake pads clean the rust off the rotors. If there is a problem with the rear brake calipers sticking, this may also be contributing to the rusting rotors. If the rotors are deeply pitted, the only answer is to replace the rotors and at the same time, inspect all aspects of the brake system. I’m not aware of any updates or recalls regarding the brakes on your Odyssey.

Q. I have a 2003 Highlander with 96,000 miles on it. I just brought it to a service station for the first time and was told the vehicle requires multiple services as it hit this milestone. They tell me it needs the following: AF, CAF, coolant flush diff. and transfer case flush. Now I cannot translate what these initials mean, but was told it all related to the 90,000 mile check up. They also said I should replace the timing chain and water pump. What they did explain was it will cost $1,350 for parts and labor. Also, by the next oil change, I will need rear brakes for another $350. Is it all necessary? What is recommended by Toyota when this vehicle reaches 90,000? This is my first Toyota and when I purchased it new, it was with the thought I would keep it 8-10 years. Although I miss the new car smell, I am still planning to keep my Highlander for at least one to two more years. What should I do?

A. I get very frustrated when I hear that a garage wants $1,350 for repairs and doesn’t have the courtesy to explain their own jargon. A vehicle is still just a machine and like all machines, if it isn’t maintained it will wear out. Maintaining a vehicle will not allow it to last forever, but will certainly extend its lifetime before the cost of maintaining it exceeds its value. The timing belt (not chain) should be replaced at 90,000 miles. Regarding the initials and other jargon, the AF is air filter (replace it when dirty) the CAF is cabin air filter (replace it when it’s dirty), the coolant should be replaced at 30,000 mile intervals, the differential and transfer case fluids should be checked periodically according to my maintenance guide. There is no mention of flushing these fluids. If they are contaminated, they certainly should be drained and replaced. If this were my vehicle, I would have the necessary repairs performed; the brakes replaced when necessary and continue to drive the Highlander for several more years.

Q. My 2006 Toyota RAV 4 has been taken over by rodents! They crawled under the intake area and gnawed the wires. When this happened, the overdrive and cruise control stopped working. Five hundred dollars later it seems like it's fixed. Any suggestions on how to keep them away?

A. The most popular folk remedy is to grate Irish Spring soap and sprinkle it around or tie Bounty dryer sheets under the hood. You could also try oil of spearmint. Most importantly, remove any food source in the area such as bird seed, pet food, or anything else that makes your car enticing. I'm also convinced rodents like the newer soy-based wiring and insulation.

Q. My 2007 Chevy Impala has an electrical problem, which drains the battery to the point of not starting. I've had the battery and alternator checked and have looked online for electrical problems with this car (and found a few). I also spoke with my mechanic who knew someone with the car who dealt with the same issue. The car was left with a dealer who spent the day trying to find this problem without luck. The owner sold the car to someone else who didn’t like the radio, and by changing it resolved the issue. Could my car have a problem with the radio?

A. The problem is referred to as parasitic draw. The problem is that some electrical accessory is not shutting off. A technician will measure the electrical drain on the car and then try to narrow down where the problem originates. The most common problem that I can find is the car’s computer doesn’t go into a rest/sleep mode. The repair involves replacing the computer with a memory “re-flash.”

Q. The battery in my Ford van died. I recharged the battery, but it still didn’t start. I want to tow the van but can’t get the shift lever out of park. What do I do?

A. Just about all vehicles use some sort of shift interlock. This interlock requires the driver to apply the brake before the vehicle can be shifted out of park. With the key in the “on” position and your foot on the brake, you should be able to shift the van into neutral—the switch is electrical, so the battery will need to have some life left in it. If this doesn’t work, some Ford vehicles have an override switch at the bottom of the shift column which will release the shifter.