It was one brochure moment after another brought to life. That’s what we concluded, and the vote was unanimous. The octogenarian sisters who rose at the crack of dawn for yoga every day and the newlyweds who liked to organize trivia games were characteristically effusive in their endorsements, but even the man with more than a dozen big-ship cruises in the bank had to agree. After rolling on the river for nearly two weeks, we were all fast friends, a boatload of 125 seasoned travelers bonded to one another like kids at a sleep-away camp. Together we scouted treasures around river bends from Budapest to Amsterdam, and we came to a final consensus on the affair while holding court on the rooftop deck of our riverboat as it plied the Rhine.
No doubt we were guilty of rendering our verdict while under the influence of one of the world’s most intoxicating vistas. The Rhine Gorge, a 40-mile stretch of fairytale scenery where vineyards cling to steep riverbanks crowned with countless castles, could turn anybody into a fan of European river cruising. Nonetheless, a change of venue wouldn’t have made a difference, because every day brought delightful revelations. These intimate, port-intensive cruises give passengers much to contemplate as they look out on changing riverside scenery and into the hearts of their travel companions for daily entertainment. Glitzy shows, hopping casinos, pools and private verandas are not the way of the riverboat. If cruise ships are floating resorts, then riverboats are their distant, yet charming, country-inn-style cousins. One rules the high seas; the other rules the heartland, and both present a form suitable for their function.
Big ships have been making waves in the cruising world, capturing most of the headlines and heading off with hordes of passengers. In Europe, however, the balance of power between big and small seems more even-handed. In addition to attracting coast-hugging cruise ships, this region laced with legendary inland waterways is luring riverboats in record numbers. These long, low-slung vessels are designed to duck under ancient bridges and slip through narrow locks. Major operators include Uniworld, Tauck World Discovery and Viking River Cruises.
Most boats carry less than 150 passengers, providing a cozy onboard atmosphere that complements itineraries crafted to reveal precious riverside hamlets as readily as historic cities. Since shore excursions (usually walking tours peppered with activities such as wine tastings and local concerts) are included in the price, river cruises foster a sense of camaraderie among fellow passengers who share a decent portion of each day together. Dining rituals bolster the social component, with meals offered at set times in an open-seating restaurant. Breakfast and lunch tend to be buffet-style, while dinner is a multi-course meal with gracious table service. My Uniworld cruise included complimentary wine, beer and soft drinks as well. And, while room service was not an option, specialty coffees and sweet snacks were available around-the-clock.
It’s worth noting that in bad economic times, riverboats are a good option for touring Europe. Aside from delivering a super-inclusive onboard experience, operators usually package in air, transfers and the services of dedicated tour managers. Some even cover gratuities. Uniworld also provided value-added perks, such as free bikes, and since almost everything is paid for in U.S. dollars, travelers skip the terrible exchange rate on the bulk of their trip.
For those prone to motion sickness, calm waterways are another bonus. By design, riverboats are extremely stable, too, and since they operate close to land, the fear of open decks some passengers experience at sea is alleviated. Unlike cruise ships, riverboats rarely devote full days to simply sailing. In fact, many itineraries feature more than one port of call a day. Exhibiting a delightful disregard for alacrity, riverboats tuck into tiny towns for a peek and pull away once passengers get an eyeful. At larger cities, they linger. Their slow-boat image generally attracts an older clientele, but that’s changing. Uniworld recently initiated programs targeting families. These summertime trips include a seven-day Paris and Normandy cruise on the Seine River that sails roundtrip from the “City of Lights” and a seven-day Castles-along-the-Rhine cruise between Amsterdam and Basel in Switzerland.
The popular Budapest-to-Amsterdam route, a voyage that covers the Danube, Main and Rhine rivers, is a perfect choice for first-time passengers. Four countries—Hungary, Austria, Germany and the Netherlands—come into focus. Plus, you get a passing glimpse of Slovakia. In just two weeks, images of everything from quaint windmills and tiny, half-timbered homes to hulking Gothic cathedrals and Baroque palaces appear. For city lovers, Vienna, Nuremberg and Cologne await discovery, as well as the cosmopolitan hubs that bookend the journey. A few standouts along the string of smaller gems include: Melk and its astonishing, butter-colored Baroque abbey perched on a bluff high above the Danube; Bamberg, with its eclectic architecture, signature smoked beer and quirky town hall (a Gothic tribute to egalitarianism erected in the middle of a small river separating the ecclesiastical and secular sections of town); and medieval Miltenberg, where crooked buildings are stacked on streets resembling ski slopes.
On top of all that, expect scenic cruising through the Wachau Valley’s combed countryside, a transit of the Main-Danube Canal (an engineering marvel that spans 106 miles) and, of course, time to ogle those castle-clad hills of the Rhine. It might seem like too much to digest, but the gentle flow of the river helps wash everything down smoothly.








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